Izakaya (居酒屋) are Japanese taverns, or pubs.
Often easily spotted by the paper lanterns called “chochin.”
Serving some of the most incredible food. Such as yakitori (やきとり), “grilled chicken skewers,” or even sushi (寿司).
Combined with a crazy variety of drinks.
And an important note: there’s usually a table fee.
TOUR: Discover the Best of Izakaya in Shinjuku
Enjoy a classic Japanese experience at select Izakaya locations. Taste fresh local food and drinks as you journey through Tokyo’s busiest area in Shinjuku. Tour price includes full-size dinner samplings and alcoholic beverages of your choice.
- Taste more than 7 mouth-watering Japanese food samplings served from select restaurants
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The history of the izakaya began in the Edo period (1603-1868) when a sake merchant serving a few tasting glasses in a corner of his shop decided to start offering some local specialties to snack on too. Little by little, men got into the habit of spending time in this kind of place after work, having a drink, eating something, and talking with the boss and other patrons. The izakaya soon became a popular place for people to meet up for a chat. —JapanExperience
Aside from being the perfect place to sample a delicious (and very eclectic) variety of Japanese foods — from sashimi and fried foods, to tofu and seasonal vegetables — dining and drinking at an izakaya is also a great way to mingle with locals. —BoutiqueJapan
The Japanese go to the izakayas mainly to drink, but if you only drink with nothing in your belly it’s easy to get drunk soon. That’s why in the izakayas they offer small plates to share so you can eat something while drinking. Therefore the food of the izakayas usually aren’t abundant dishes or sophisticated food. —JapanWebMagazine
Okay, let’s dive in deeper… much deeper, because Izakaya are so good.
Are Izakaya the Same as Japanese Restaurants?
It’s easy to see why many visitors to Japan mistake izakaya for a Japanese restaurant. The food and drink menu is very robust compared to bars in the U.S.
I suppose it would be perfectly acceptable to simply think of them as izakaya restaurants. When you want a great sampling of Japanese foods you’ll be hard-pressed to find something better.
I don’t think I would classify them as Japanese restaurants though. There are some common things about izakaya that you wouldn’t expect at a regular Japanese restaurant — such as otoshi (more on that later).
There really should be an izakaya restaurant guide of sorts. In fact, I’ll work on adding more articles here on TokyoSpark to introduce you to some exceptional local izakaya.
Entering and Being Seated
The first time entering a Japanese izakaya can be a bit daunting but don’t worry, it’s easy to navigate even if you know zero Japanese.
When you go to an izakaya, it is much like entering any restaurant. The staff will greet you at the entrance with a friendly smile and a question.
“Hello, how many in your party?”
But of course, they’ll say it in Japanese. This is your first challenge. The keywords to listen for are “… nan-mei sama
If you hear this you know they are asking a “how many” question to which you can just use your fingers to indicate how many people are in your party.
The types of seating
After they know how many are in your party, they may ask another question or lead you towards the seating area where there are usually a few choices: counter, ozashiki (tatami), or a hybrid setup called horigotatsu.
Counter seating is obvious. Ozashiki, on the other hand, is unique to Japan. It is low tables over tatami mat (bamboo). Foreigners often find it difficult to sit for long periods of time on the flat tatami, but the cultural allure draws us in.
For that reason, horigotatsu were invented. They are mostly the same as ozashiki, but with a sunken area beneath the table where your legs can hang more comfortably.
This makes it easier to sit, but often they’ll lack back support… so you know, it can still be tiring. But it is nice to experience at least once while you’re in Japan.
Take your shoes off
Something I almost forgot to mention. When seated at ozashiki and horigotatsu tables you will have to remove your shoes before stepping up onto the tatami mats.
Generally, there is a locker-like setup nearby to store and lock your shoes.
Another thing you’ll notice at the edge of the table are slippers. Slip them on when you need to use the restroom (or otherwise walk away from the table) without putting your shoes on.
If you have large feet like I do, it can be quite a squeeze to get the slippers on. Apparently, Japanese feet tend to be smallish.
Standard “Rules” to Keep in Mind
Okay, don’t let this dissuade you. It’s pretty standard across nearly all izakaya. There’s a seating fee. It varies by shop but is usually around ¥300-¥1,000 (per person).
It’s not just a fee though. The izakaya will usually bring you their signature otoshi. A dish served immediately to whet your appetite and give you something to nibble on while you wait for your order. This will vary by the izakaya.
If it helps, there’s no tipping in Japan and this tiny fee is less than what you’d likely have tipped.
An hour or two limit; sometimes
Don’t be alarmed when the izakaya is really busy and there are parties of people waiting to be seated, they might institute a time limit.
This limit is usually 2 hours, but I have experienced a 1 hour limit as well. It will vary from place to place.
What’s on the Izakaya Menu?
Variety. If I had to describe izakaya food in one word it would be variety. The first thing you’ll notice about the menu at an izakaya is each food item is rather small.
This is amazing!
It gives you the opportunity to try a wide variety of dishes without stuffing yourself on the first. And you’re going to want to try some of these:
- Yakitori – literally translates to “grilled chicken,” but you’ll quickly find yakitori consists of far more of the chicken than you might first imagine. It’s chicken skewers grilled over a flame (it’s delicious!
- Ikayaki – yaki means grilled and
ikais squid — grilled squid!
- Here’s what Wikipedia has on ikayaki.
- Tamagoyaki – tamago means egg. Tamagoyaki is a sort of rolled grilled
omelette. Some shops will make it a bit sweet while others will be salty, it’s a toss-up.
- Gyoza – we refer to these as “pot stickers.” They’re
a porkand veggie dumpling steamed and pan grilled (they’re absolutely amazing too).
- Karaage – this is Japan’s famous fried chicken. Similar in appearance to nuggets, but sometimes cooked like a cutlet — karaage is boneless (see tebasaki below)
- Korokke – this is croquettes, usually something like ground beef mixed with potato and deep fried. A Japan favorite is the
kani kurimukorokke — deep fried crab and cream sauce.
- Tebasaki – chicken wings! And wow does Japan have some delicious wings. Usually peppery, sometimes slightly sweetened, or a sesame sauce flavor, but no matter what, if you love chicken wings you love the wings in Japan.
- Okonomiyaki – if you’ve done any research into Japanese food you’ve probably learned about this. It’s the savory pancake-like food with ingredients like squid, pork, shrimp, etc… and if you want to learn more I have an in-depth guide to okonomiyaki right here.
- Sashimi – sashimi is sushi without the rice. Carefully sliced cuts of raw fish. Usually enjoyed with soy sauce and wasabi. This is a staple at
Would you like salt or sauce?
Many items, especially yakitori, you’ll find in izakaya food menus will have a choice between shio or tare. That is salt or sauce flavor. The sauce is usually a soy sauce-based mixture created in-house — each izakaya having their own taste (most are slightly sweetened).
Chances are if you ‘re visiting an izakaya you’re there for the drinks as much as the food. Izakaya typically offer quite a wide variety of adult beverages not often found outside of Japan.
- Biru (beer) — The Japanese love beer. Mostly the good old-fashioned “name biru” (tap beer). But you will find a variety of bottled beer as well.
- Shochu — This is a type of clear rice alcohol that mixes so well with tea, juice, etc. that you often don’t even notice it (that’s probably shochu’s best attribute if you’re a light drinker). This is the base alcohol found in “sours” (mixed cocktails) in Japan.
- Sake — this is the classic rice wine “nihonshu” you see in movies. It’s usually quite strong and the flavor differs by brand — often served warm.
There are a plethora of more drinks, but from my vantage point, these are the basics you’ll find at essentially all izakaya.
When you’re ready to order
After looking at the menu in finding what you want, it’s time to get the staff’s attention. This can be quite a bit different than what you may be used to back home.
Some shops will have a call button you can push to send the staff running to your table. But many of the best ones don’t. So what do you do?
You yell “Sumimsen!”
While yelling sumimasen it’s good to put a hand in the air and try to make eye contact. Don’t worry, you’re not being rude, sumimasen means “excuse me.”
It’s normal in Japan to yell out for the wait staff. Obviously, don’t yell loudly in anger, just a raised the voice to catch their attention is enough.
After they arrive at your table the fun begins. It’s time to order!
A Simple but effective Ordering Trick When You Can’t Speak Japanese
I call this the “point and count” method. It’s self-explanatory, with one hand you point at the item on the menu. With the other, you hold up a finger count of how many you want of that item.
Repeat until you’ve ordered everything you want. The real challenge is when the menu has no pictures, but that’s for another guide.
The sights and Sounds (and Smells)
This is where things start to get interesting. The normally reserved Japanese people start to show their personalities. Izakaya can often be boisterous and loud with lots of laughter and conversation.
It’s as if this is their chance to escape for a little while and have fun with friends and family. A small break from life for a moment.
Because of this, izakaya are usually loud. Not like a sports stadium, but not quiet. It’s fun, lively… it adds to the ambiance.
Something to keep in mind
There usually is no non-smoking area (and even if there were you’d probably still not totally escape the smoke.)
Some, but not all, have all-you-can-eat-eat/drink options. Sometimes they’re separate, and sometimes they’re together. And sometimes they are part of a special dining course.
Nomihodai — this is all-you-can-drink. Nomimasu means “to drink.” When combined with –
Tabehodai — this is all-you-can-eat. Tabemasu means “to eat,” and combined with –
Typically with nomihodai and tabehodai come a time limit. This varies by the place, but on average you should expect 2 hours. Some places have a
How Much Does it Cost?
The cost might be the best part! For the most part, the price you end up paying is up to you. It depends on how much you eat and drink (don’t forget about the seating fee).
There is one caveat, however. If you’re out with a group of Japanese people the entire party usually splits the check evenly (unless someone opts to pay the entire bill).
This is because going to an izakaya is often a group event and everyone ends up sharing the food. It would be difficult to know who ordered what, so they split the check evenly.
This is done at the table amongst the group. I have yet to see an izakaya divvy the check.
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